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Day 1 ARRIVE AT ENTEBBE
The approach to Entebbe airport over the string of tiny islets scattered
through the iridescent waters of Lake Victoria
is breathtakingly spectacular. Overnight: Lake Victoria
or Imperial Botanical Hotel or Golf View Inn (BB)
Day 2 - SOURCE OF THE NILE - BUJAGALI RAPIDS
As soon as
we leave the hotel we are immediately plunged into the luxuriant, eternally
green vegetation of equatorial Africa. The
road follows the banks of Lake Victoria until we reach Kampala, and then splits heading east into
the mountainside tea plantations and sugar cane fields. Further on, a lake
flaunts its enormity and a majestic river embarks upon its long journey to the
sea: the source of the Nile, the goal of all
such journeys of discovery. It is a deeply moving moment. A little further
north, at Bujagali, the enormous volume of water passes through a jagged gorge,
forming spectacular rapids and waterfalls.
Overnight: Jinja Nile Resort or Hotel Triangle (BLD)
Day 3 TOMBS OF KASUBI - MASINDI
We return to Kampala, the capital city of Uganda with over 1 million
inhabitants, and has an architectural style that reflects the diverse ethnic
origins of its population. Mosques with their minarets pointing to the sky and
Sikh temples flaunting their decadent sculptures, while the Roman Catholic
cathedral displays an airy façade and the Anglican church brings back memories
of Victorian propriety. On the road out of the city on a hillside in a popular
quarter, are the Tombs of Kasubi. They are on the site of an ancient royal
palace and are the burial tombs of 4 Baganda kings who have stamped their
authority on local history over the last hundred years. This large straw hut
with its sacred wall is the most important monument in Uganda. Here we
familiarise ourselves with the traditions and costumes of the great Ugandan
tribe. The fields of banana trees and yams slowly give way to other crops such
as maize and cassava, which do not need so much water. Having now left the
tarmac road, we pass the vast cattle farms where long-horned cattle drink from
scarce water holes.
Overnight: Masindi Hotel (BLD)
Days 4/5 MURCHISON
NATIONAL PARK
At Kanyo
Pabidi, as we enter the Budongo forest we get our first glimpse of the
chimpanzees. The Kabalega Waterfalls are undeniably one of the most remarkable
sights in the park. Here, the river makes a path across a narrow gorge and
unleashes hundreds of gallons of water over the edge of a 50m high precipice.
Further on, the Nile will quietly rejoin the vast waters of Lake
Albert. What a striking contrast. We, however, take to the water
in a boat to get a closer look at the waterfalls and to enjoy a unique
opportunity to observe the thousands of vibrantly coloured birds, herds of
buffalo at the waters edge and crocodiles sunbathing on the riverbanks. The
Ugandan cob is the most commonly seen antelope; the hartebeest and oribi are
also common. Among the thousands of birds, we must mention the Abyssinian
hornbill and the rare shoebill stork. We also cross the Nile
by boat to the lakeside area, watering hole for elephant and Rothschild giraffe.
Overnight: Nile Safari Camp
or Paraa Safari Lodge or Red Chilli Rest Camp (BLD)
Day 6 - DELTA OF THE NILE - LAKE
ALBERT
At the park exit, accessible only by a small narrow strip
of land in the middle of the papyrus reeds on the huge delta, is the village
home of the Waseko fishermen. Here the people live in tune with the rhythm of
their spoils in the waterways with their changing currents at the mercy of the
floodwaters and the wind. Water is omnipresent. On the market place there is an
incredible display of merchandise for sale, often to Congolese smugglers.
Freshly caught fish is smoked on large open metal racks. Moving into the
eastern part of the Rift Valley we come to Lake Albert
and its coastal fringes where flocks of small zebu are tended by the proud Alur
herdsmen, while their women tend the fields of cassava and cotton or rebuild
the thatch on their spacious huts. At Butiaba, previously an extremely active
lakeside port, a narrow tongue of land flanked by borassus palm trees pushes into
the lake to the warm water. Further on the road negotiate the cliffs of the
escarpment and cross the fertile agricultural area growing sweet potatoes and
tobacco.
Overnight: Crown Hotel Hoima (BLD)
Day 7 EASTERN UGANDA
Today we make acquaintance with
deepest Uganda,
whose countryside and villages are accessed on a sinewy laterite slope. From
Hoima to Fort Portal, the landscape is mainly high
plateaux and valleys, at the bottom of some; rivers have evaporated into wet
marshlands. Several villages of economic importance cling to the slopes and act
as trading places for villagers who often have to carry their harvest on their
backs. It is an area supporting mainly agriculture and cattle grazing. Further
south, the tea plantations display their resplendent green carpet as far as the
eye can see. Once we branch off at Kyanjojo, the landscape becomes more
tortuous as we reach the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains, whose snow-capped
peaks can be seen in the distance. At Kasese we cross the equator and enter the
large open plains of the Queen Elizabeth National Park.
Overnight: Mweya Safari Lodge or Jacana Lodge or Ecology
Hostel or in tents. (BLD)
Days 8/9 - QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK
This magnificent
park in the middle of the Rift Valley encompassing Lake Edward and Lake George,
which are joined by the natural waterway of the Kazinga Canal, which we explore
by boat. Extinct volcanoes, crater lakes, marshes and savannah grassland
support the different eco-systems within the park. More than 500 different
species of birds have been counted, a great number of them in the shallows or
following buffalo and elephant. On the hills invaded by euphorbia, large herds
of Ugandan cob, topi and forest hog are commonly seen. The huge fig trees of
the Kiambura Gorge provide a safe refuge for families of chimpanzee; other
primates, such as the colobus monkey and red tailed monkey are to be found in
the Maramagambo forest.
Overnight: Mweya Safari Lodge or Jacana Safari Lodge or
Ecology Hostel (BLD)
Day 10 HILLS AND VOLCANOES
Here the grass covered
hills are pastures for the remarkable flocks belonging to the Banyaankole
tribe, the enclosed valleys are filled with a mixture of banana, tofu and
coffee plantations. Once past Kabale the busy commercial centre, the countryside
offers us an unbelievable palette of green, from the blue-green of the
eucalyptus trees which divide this tapestry into a multitude of tiny pieces,
and the deep green of the cypress trees that line the slopes, to the light
green of the paddy fields at the bottom of the sheltered valleys. As we come
round the bend in the dirt road we are offered the most magnificent view of the
whole volcano chain of the Virunga Mountains. At Kisoro, the lava road splits
and we head towards the Rwandan border.
Accommodation: Gorillas Nest or Village Touristique de
Kinigi (BLD)
Day 11 - MOUNTAIN GORILLAS -
As the first light of dawn
breaks through the curtain of mist clinging to the summits of Karisimbi,
Bisoke, Sabinyio, Gahinga and Muhabura, we make our way into the Parc National
des Volcans. Tracking the gorillas through the unique vegetation can take
several hours of challenging walking in wet and muddy conditions. Seeing a
gorilla makes the trek worth the hardship. In the late afternoon drive to
Gisenyi, a small town located on the northern shore of Lake Kivu.
Overnight: Sun Kivu (BLD) or Hotel Regina or Mission de
Kigufi (BLD)
Day 12 - DEPARTURE -
Enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the
lakeshore or a refreshing early morning swim. After a wholesome breakfast, leave
the gleaming waters of Lake Kivu and journey back to Kigali, through the
beautiful countryside of the Land of a Thousand Hills. Transfer to the
airport. (BL)
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