National Parks - Kenya

The Aberdare mountains are known as Nyandarua ("Drying Hide") to the Kikuyu people, because of their resemblance to a skin over a drying frame. The first European to see the mountains, Joseph Thompson, renamed them in 1884 after Lord Aberdare, president of the Royal Geographical Society. A national park was established in 1950. Distinctive vegetation graces the mountain slopes ranging from dense jungle to thick bamboo forests to unusual alpine plants abundant in the moorlands. A variety of animal life is common in the lower elevations although viewing is difficult due to the thick vegetation.

The Aberdare National Park surrounds the moorland and high forest of the Kinangop plateau and reaches down to the lower slopes near Nyeri. It tends to be a popular distinction for travelers and is often left off the itineraries of safari companies as well. The threat of wet weather resulting in impassable roads coupled with limited overnight accommodations make this park a difficult stop for tours. Another drawback is the dense forest which limits game viewing. The park does offer glimpses of flora and fauna not found anywhere else in Kenya except the Mt. Kenya area. For the determined traveler, accommodations can be arranged at a variety of unusual, although expensive, hotels.

Treetops is the original and most famous of the "treetop" style hotels. It is built on stilts overlooking a saltlick and waterhole making it ideal for night-time game viewing. The design was inspired by Peter Pan and originally opened in 1932 as a two-room tree house. The Ark is situated beside a swampy water- hole and artificial saltlick. It is an ideal location for close-up, sedentary game viewing. Both hotels require advance reservations and you must be driven there in the lodges' vehicles - no personal vehicles are allowed.

This park lies in the shadow of the Kilimanjaro, which is the highest peak in Africa. Although not as large as others in the southern region, Amboseli features a unique ecosystem and a variety of game that is easy to spot. The park also features five different wildlife habitats: the seasonal lake bed of Lake Amboseli, sulfur springs surrounded by swamps and marshes, open plains, woodlands, and lava rock thornbush country. Amboseli is best known for its great elephant herds. The park also provides the best chance of spotting the elusive black rhino. Lion and cheetah are common as well as Maasai giraffe, eland, Coke's hartebeest, waterbuck, impala and gazelle.

Because it has a much dryer climate, Amboseli has suffered more than any other park in terms of the damage done by minibuses. Much of the year it is a dust bowl so sticking to defined tracks while driving helps tremendously. Some of the lodges in the park include Amboseli Lodge and Kilimanjaro Safari Lodge which provide the full array of conveniences; and the Ol Tukai Lodge which consists of a series of well appointed luxurious cottage style rooms, and the Amboseli Serena Lodge which is close to the southern perimeter of the park. Its close proximity to Enkongo Narok Swamp guarantees a variety of bird and animal activity. Camp grounds and smaller hotel accommodations exist as well at reasonable prices.

The park covers 320 sq km in the south-west corner of Kenya. It receives ample water from the tree-lined Mara River, a tributary of the Talek River. The western border of the park features the Oloololo Escarpment as well as the highest concentration of game. This area is often difficult to traverse as the swampy ground often becomes impassable after heavy rains. Because of its accessibility from Nairobi, the eastern edge of the park is most popular with tourists and minibuses.

The highlight of the Mara is undoubtedly the great migration of wildebeest which move north from the Serengeti in July and August in search of lush grass. They return south in October before the rainy season. Watching millions of these animals move together in mass is truly a humbling experience for human visitors. Other animals are commonly spotted in the park including the big cats: lions, cheetahs, and leopards. Lions are often found in large prides and it's not uncommon to see them hunting. Elephant, buffalo, zebra, and hippo roam in large herds while the Topi, impala, and Coke's hartebeest are also abundant.

The official designation of the Maasai Mara is as a park reserve, and it therefore does not have national park status. The primary difference is that a park reserve allows people to graze their animals and shoot game if they are attacked. National parks set aside the entire area for wildlife and the natural environment with no allowances for pastoral grazing. The Maasai Mara region is the traditional land of the Maasai people who often find themselves in competition with the wildlife and tourists for scarce resources. When the game reserve was established in the early 1960s, much the their native land was put off limits and pressure for land became intense. Constant conflict with land authorities led to settlement programs which have met with only limited success. As a nomadic, pastoral-oriented people, Maasai traditions scorn the concept of agriculture and land ownership. The tension continues as traditional ways clash with the 20th century.

Accommodations vary greatly in the Maasai Mara region and include all levels of convenience from tented camps to luxury lodges. Most establishments organize game drives in the early morning and late afternoon when the wildlife is most active. Like all wild areas in Kenya, the Mara can be deceptively dangerous. It is advised that tourists not travel off the beaten path alone, nor is it wise to travel in anything other than a four-wheel drive vehicle as the terrain is often difficult.

On the edge of the desert outback surrounding the upper reaches of the Tana River is a cluster of interlinked parks that includes Meru National Park, and the Bisanadi, Kora, North Kitui and Rahole national reserves. Together they cover 5,281 sq km and include most every form of habitat from open woodlands to dense bush to dry scrub. In the mid-1980s, the English Royal Geographical Society and the National Museums of Kenya selected Kora as the sight to implement the first and largest comprehensive study of an ecosystem. Another park boasting a history rich in habitat research, Meru is the most famous of the regional parks and is the only one with visitor facilities. This is also the park where Joy and George Adamson did most of their research and where both were murdered. Meru National Park was once the home of Kenya's only herd of white rhinos, originally imported from South Africa. Although steadfastly guarded day and night, heavily-armed poachers sadly shot the herd and their keepers too. Despite its tragically violent history, Meru is a beautiful area that supports a lush jungle of forest, swamp, and tall grass as well as numerous species of wildlife.

Mombasa is the main port on Kenya’s Coast. By the 15th century this important port was a thriving, sophisticated city with established trade routes to China, Persia, and India. Today Mombasa continues to be the largest port on the East African coast serving the countries of Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, and eastern Zaire, and of course, Kenya. The population is fast approaching half a million with 70% of African descent and a small minority of Asians and Europeans.

Over the centuries Mombasa has struggled with numerous foreign invaders and hostility. The Portuguese, the ferocious Zimba tribe, and the Omanis have all laid claim to Mombasa since the 12th century. By the late 1800s it became the base of exploration for British expeditions to Kenya’s interior. In 1988, the Imperial British East Africa Company set up headquarters in Mombasa. British rule of Mombasa became official in 1895 when they leased a stretch of the coast including the port city from the Sultan of Zanzibar. Officially this coastal strip still belonged to Zanzibar until ceded to a newly independent Kenya in 1963.

The British affirmed Mombasa’s importance as East Africa’s most vital port when they completed a railway in 1901 stretching from Mombasa to Uganda. Today, the city remains one of Africa’s major links to the rest of the world. Built on a 15 sq km island, Mombasa is surrounded by a natural harbor. The mainland coasts north and south of the city boast a proliferation of tourist resorts. Within the city itself, a traveler has numerous opportunities for exploration and discovery.

Fort Jesus is perhaps Mombasa’s biggest attraction as it dominates the harbor entrance. This Portuguese stronghold was built in 1593 to fend off local enemies and Turkish warships. The remains of the fort provide an interesting tour back through history and a small museum features a variety of relics. The Omani House, located in the north-western corner of the fort has fascinating displays on Swahili life and breathtaking views over the old town. Mombasa Old Town features a smattering of styles and traditions common to coastal Swahili villages and late 19th century Indian and British colonial architecture. Although its history goes back centuries, most of the houses in Old Town are generally no more than 100 years old. Nevertheless, many of these buildings were modeled on ancient Swahili designs and feature intricately carved doors and door frames. The Muslim influence can also be seen in the construction of balconies, their support brackets, and detailed lattice work.

The modern center of Mombasa is the intersection of four major thoroughfares: Moi Avenue, Nyerere Road, Nkrumah Road, and Digo Road. Moi Avenue provides the most interesting opportunity for exploration as it is lined with a double row of souvenir shops and stalls. The city’s most famous land mark is also located here: two pairs of crossed tusks created as a ceremonial arch to commemorate the coronation of Elizabeth II in 1953. Treasury Square remains the administrative center of Mombasa and features old colonial buildings, the historic town hall, and a charming garden square. This area of Mombasa is well worth exploring and walking guides are readily available.

The Kakamega Forest Reserve is a 45 sq km swath of tropical rainforest in the heart of an intensively cultivated agricultural region. The reserve is the only remaining section of such forest in East Africa and is home to 125 species of hardwood trees and hundreds of species of birds and animals, many of which are found no where else in Kenya. The Forest Department maintains a four-room rest house as well as a large nursery for propagating trees and shrubs. Tours can be arranged with l ittle trouble and the side trip is well worth the effort. This area is known for its daily torrential rains that drench the region. Travelers are advised to complete their journey by early afternoon to avoid getting caught on impassable roads.

The Cherangani Hills are part of the rift valley system and extend for about 60 km northeast from the town of Eldoret. The hills form the western wall of the Elgeyo Escarpment and are ideal for camping and hiking. The hills are dotted with small towns and are home to the Marakwet people who migrated here from the north. Kitale is a small agricultural town and serves as an important take off point for travelers exploring the Mt. Elgon region. Kitale is home to the National Museum of Western Kenya which contains excellent ethnographic displays of the Turkana people as well as animal and geological information. The outdoor exhibits include traditional homesteads of numerous tribal groups and a nature trail which leads through virgin forest behind the museum.

The Saiwa Swamp National Park sits just north of Kitale in a 2 sq km area of swampland surrounding the Koitobos River. This tiny park was set up originally to protect the natural habitat of the Sitatunga antelope in Kenya. The reserve is only accessible on foot and boasts numerous walking trails which skirt the swamp. Mt. Elgon National Park covers a 169 sq km area on the eastern slopes of Mt. Elgon. The free-standing volcanic cone sits on the border with Uganda and the Mt. Elgon range is the fourth highest in Kenya. A spectacular range of vegetation can be found on the mountain that features lush rainforest at the base followed by dense bamboo forests at the higher elevations. Giant alpine vegetation cover the moorlands at the very top of the mountain range. Not far from the entrance gate (approximately 9 km), a series of deep caves have been formed from eroded volcanic ash and serve as natural salt licks for the elephant population. The largest and most accessible are the Kitum Caves where it is possible to see the gouge marks made by the elephants foraging for the minerals from the walls.

Mt. Kenya is regarded as the home of God by the Kikuyu who are one of Kenya’s Bantu tribes. Rising 5,199 meters above the equator, Kere-Nyaga or Mountain of Whiteness is the second highest mountain in Africa. It can be seen for miles, usually in the early morning before clouds obscure the view. Mt. Kenya is a volcanic cone that last erupted two million years ago. The steep valleys surrounding the summit were carved out by glaciers. Only seven glaciers remain today, down from the eighteen recorded in 1893. Some environmentalists predict that the existing glaciers will vanish in 25 years.

Mt. Kenya is unusual in that it can be climbed by most anyone in fit condition. There are eight acknowledged routes up the mountain, three of which are used regularly. Mt. Kenya has smooth slopes on three sides with a ring of rocky peaks just below the summit. In order to reach Batian, the actual summit, specialized climbing gear is required as one must cross glaciers and steep terrain. It is possible to complete a circular walk around the peaks after a 3 - 5 day climb. The primary health hazards climbers face are altitude sickness and hypothermia. Several options exist for supplies, porterage, and climbing tours. The towns of Naro Moru and Nanyuki, popular starting points for climbers, are recommended locations for coordinating trips and lodging. Naro Moru River Lodge is especially well-known and provides comprehensive services for climbers.

Lake Bogoria : The long, slender soda lake lies at the foot of the towering Laikipia Escarpment. Towards the southern end of the lake are a series of geysers, boiling pools and hot springs. The 107sq km national park also protects one of Kenya's remaining herds of greater kudu. The lake also boasts flamingoes and pelicans, but the region is best known for the physical beauty of the setting.

Lake Baringo : Traveling further north, one finds Lake Baringo, a freshwater lake that is home to a host of bird life. This is the most northerly in the chain of Rift Valley lakes and is a spectacular center for bird-watching. The Lake Baringo Club offers a variety of services including wildlife walks guided by an ornithologist, boat rides, camel rides, and local trips to the local Njemps tribal village and a local snake park.

Lake Naivasha : As a freshwater lake, Naivasha is used to irrigate the surrounding countryside. Its cool climate and fertile soil attracts Nairobi residents seeking refuge from city life.  Farms, vegetable gardens, and vineyards contribute to this weekend retreat atmosphere. Over 400 species of birds have been reported at Lake Naivasha alone, making it a Mecca for bird lovers and researchers. Joy Adamson, author of Born Free, lived on the shores of Lake Naivasha. Her home, Elsamere, is now a wildlife education and conservation center.

Hells Gate : Also nearby is Hell's Gate National Park, one of only two parks in Kenya where you are allowed to explore of foot. The Njorowa Gorge was once the outlet from Lake Naivasha. Today the passageway is dried up leaving sheer, red crumbling cliffs through which you walk unguided. The loop between the two main gates is 22km long, but there is a 6km nature trail from the Interpretation Center. Another attraction in the Lake Naivasha region is the privately owned Crater Lake Game Sanctuary. Situated on part of the former estate of Lady Diana Delamere, the scenery around the lake located in a volcanic crater is splendid. This is also the home of the ox-wagon safaris.

Lake Nakuru : Lake Nakuru National Park is world famous for its population of greater and lesser flamingo which at times number over a million. The park covers 200 2 kilometers offering a cross section of woodlands, wetlands, rocky cliffs and the acacia scrub. The lake itself is a shallow alkaline lake, supporting several species of fish. It’s more that 400 species of birds have made it an ornithologists paradise. There is plenty of game and buffalos, leopards, lions giraffe are easily seen, besides impala, dik dik and also the black and white rhino.

Samburu , Shaba, and Buffalo Springs are situated along the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River just north of Isiolo town.  They combine to cover some 300 sq km of mostly scrub desert and open savannah plain. Small rugged hills break the monotony and provide a perfect habitat for leopards. The river supports a variety of game including elephant, buffalo, cheetah, lion, dik-dik, and wart hog. While Grevy's zebra, gerenuk, and the reticulated giraffe are especially abundant in these parks, human tourists are not as common. Except for the lodge entrances, travelers often find themselves en joying the environs in virtual solitude.

Tsavo West covers an area of 8,500 sq km and Tsavo East which covers an area of 11,000 sq km. Both sections of the park contain a variety of habitats, geologic/soil types, animals, birds, and plants. The northern area of Tsavo West is the most developed and has some beautiful scenery. Tsavo East features vast rolling plains with scrubby vegetation and is much less visited. The general public is prohibited north of the Galana River in an effort to protect the area from a poachers. This protected area constitutes the majority of the overall park area and the efforts seem to be working as elephant and rhino populations are slowly increasing. Four wheel drive is a necessity in both sections of the park.

Tsavo East comprises the southern, more accessible section of the park. Tsavo was home to the largest herds of elephants only 20 years ago. Up to 20,000 elephants roamed the lands which quickly led to a degradation of Tsvao's capacity to support such numbers. The landscape surrounding Tsavo East was fundamentally changed from a forested savannah into deserts and plains as the great animals foraged for food. With the vegetation depleted, drought followed and many of the great herds died off. Poachers have decimated the survivors, although the Kenyan government has made a concerted effort to prosecute the killers. This region of the park also includes the Kanderi Swamp and the Aruba Dam, a man-made dam on the Voi River. Both areas attract an abundance of wildlife without the usual horde of tourists. Although Tsavo East features some dramatic settings, it is generally less traveled than the other southern parks.

The watering holes near Kilaguni and Ngulia Lodges attract the most abundant wildlife in the area. When water is scarce during the dry season, Kilaguni is an especially active animal sanctuary. The Shetani Lava Flow, a massive 50 sq km lava bed, is located in close proximity to the Kilaguni Lodge. The name means "devil" in Swahili and the barren expanse of black rock was formed by an eruption in the nearby Chyulu Hills. There are also caves near the lava flow that can be explored with the right gear.. Also in the area is the Chaimu Crater which features extensive walking and climbing trails.

One of the most spectacular sights in Tsavo West may be the Mzima Springs. The underground river that feeds the springs is part of the Kilimanjaro water system. This powerful freshwater source pumps 282,000 liters per minute (50 million gallons a day) into a pool and stream of crocs and hippos. The springs are also the primary source of Mombasa's freshwater supply and there is a direct pipeline from here to the coast. Since 1969, and underwater viewing tank allows visitors to watch animals as they swim by.